18. BSA A10 The Generation Game

The continuing saga of the BSA A10 Super Rocket rebuild. Time to look at the dynamo, I had removed the dynamo back in February 2012 and it had sat in a draw in my workshop ever since. Stripping it was not too difficult but the inside revealed the usual signs of old age along with large quantities of oil. I can only assume that with the bike standing still for so long, the oil tank had slowly emptied itself into the sump (known as "wet sumping") and then when eventually the previous owner had got the bike running the oil was forced past the old oil seals and into the dynamo. Needless to say the coil was soaked along with the armature and the brush gear. I stripped it down completely and inspected each part and then contacted a chap who advertises himself in the BSA Star magazine as "Dynamo Dynamo". He was extremely helpful and advised me on what parts I needed and the costs. Basically I replaced everything except the armature and the body.

Once I received the parts, I selected all of the items that could be seen on the outside, including the main body and the brush gear cover and sent them away for chroming. I then set about polishing the aluminium end caps and cleaning up everything else.

Sometime later the chromed parts arrived back and I set about reassembling the dynamo. The idea was first to do a "dry build", just to see that everything fitted and that nothing was missing. This turned out to be a good idea, as as soon as the coil and the armature were bolted in place, it was obvious that the armature would not turn and was fouling on the coil. I spoke to the Dynamo man and he informed me that you needed a special tool to tighten the coil in place, but that also sometimes you just needed a slimmer coil. After due consideration, I decided to send the whole thing back to him for reassembly. I've learnt that sometimes the secret of DIY is knowing when not to!

The reassembled dynamo arrived back a week later and was perfect. Time to offer it onto the engine. I fed it through the dynamo clamp OK and with its new cork seal in place it fit nicely up against the back of the inner timing cover. Time to go into the draw and pull out the dynamo drive sprockets. For those of you you are following this blog, you may recall that on my 1st December blog I said that the eagle eyed BSA experts would notice that something was missing from the inner timing cover picture. It was at this point that I found it. Laying in the draw was a strange steel bush with two holes in it and a large flange. I had no idea what it was, but it looked important. All sorts of warning bells were ringing, had I got to strip the whole engine again?. I worked my way through the parts book until I found it. It's called the camshaft oil breather and it fits on top of the cork pad on the end of the camshaft, located by the peg that sticks through the cork pad and through the inner timing cover from the inside.

This meant removing the inner timing cover again along with the oil pump and tacho drive and of course a new gasket. The other thing that happens as you remove the inner cover is that the centre timing gear comes off with it and the valve timing is lost. So I reset the valve timing fitted the oil breather, checked the end float, fitted a new gasket and reassembled.

Now at last I can fit the dynamo sprockets, along with another cork spacer behind the big one and then the drive chain around the two sprockets. It was then simply a case of rotating the dynamo to tighten the chain. A hard press on the dynamo to make sure that the cork gasket seals against the back of the inner timing cover and tighten the dynamo clamp. Now the oil pump and tacho drive can be refitted and at last the outer timing cover fitted.

This final picture shows the rebuild a little further on with the exhausts fitted, but I'll cover that on another blog.

For those of you who follow this blog, you will have noticed that there has been a gap of about 6 weeks since the last one. This was due to the decision to buy a box trailer to transport my bikes in to shows. The huge amount of work necessary to make the box trailer usable accounted for the missing progress on the A10 and will be featured in another blog later.




I would love to read your comments on this blog. If you would like to make some please click "Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)" at the bottom of this page. If you would like to be automatically informed when a new episode is posted then please tick the "Join this site" box at the bottom of the page. Thanks for reading. Kevin

 Copyright K. Hopcroft  17.02.13 All rights reserved
 You can contact me on: hopcroftscoot@gmail.com

My Other Blogs:

1961 Ariel Arrow Super Sport Motorcycle :
http://60sclassicmotorbikes.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/1961-aerial-golden-arrow-restoration.html

Miniature Land Rover Defender:
http://miniaturelandrover.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/1-miniature-land-rover-defender-idea.html?view=timeslide

1971 VW Karman Ghia Convertible Car:
http://karmannghiarestoration.blogspot.co.uk/2017/03/1-karmann-ghia-retoration-project.html

Motorcycle Trailers / Caravans:
http://motorcycletrailersandcaravans.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/1-motorcycle-trailers-problem.html

17. BSA A10 Renovation Rear Guard Action

After a very long wait, the custom made stainless steel rear mudguard brackets have finally arrived and they fit perfectly. All I need to do is get them on the buffing wheel and polish them to a mirror finish and then bolt them on to the hockey sticks.

At last I can try the new stainless mudguard in place and to my surprise it does not need cutting at all as its length is perfect. However with the mudguard drilled and fitted to the new brackets there was one small problem. Whilst the mudguard is pressed thinner at the front, to pass between the legs of the rear swinging arm, the designers have failed to account for the two gussets on the swinging arm where the arms meet the cross tube. These gussets prevent the mudguard fitting snugly into the swinging arm and also hold the two "U" brackets, that bolt the mudguard to the frame at the front, too far away from the mudguard. The answer was to mark the mudguard where it touches the swinging arm gussets and allow for the up/down movement of the arm. I then took the mudguard back to my friend who cut out the two marked areas and welded fillet plates in place. One more check in the frame and it now fitted perfectly. So back onto the buffing wheel to re polish the mudguard  and then it was time to bolt the mudguard in place.


I made some small aluminium spacers to fit between the "U" brackets and the mudguard and some black flexible plastic gaskets to fit between the "U" brackets and the frame. Then on with the brackets with nice stainless bolts and dome nuts and the fit was excellent.

I had already decided that I did not want to re-fit the old BSA A10 number plate and rear light to the new rear mudguard and was looking through a vehicle wiring and accessories catalogue, when I came across
the perfect answer. A beautiful replica rear light with a shaped chrome housing and would you believe it, the firm was only 4 miles away? So I got into the car and went to have a look. The light was even better than I expected and although it was a bit expensive, I couldn't resist it. Of course that also meant that I needed a new number plate. So onto the Internet to order a pressed aluminium black and silver plate.

Fitting the rear light turned out to be a longer job than expected as, not only did I have to drill the rear mudguard, but one of the fixings had to be vertically down on a sloping surface and once drilled, I then had to make a sloping spacer to allow it to bolt securely onto the mudguard without distorting it.

Even the bolts needed to secure the rear light had to be countersunk to fit the housing and they were not supplied with it. So I set about turning some countersunk Allen key stainless steel bolts on the lathe. All very time consuming, but at this stage there was no point in bodging the job.

With the rear light in place it was time for the number plate and what a disappointment! I was expecting one like I had fitted on my scooter. A black plate with polished aluminium digits showing through. When I got it, it was painted black and then the digits had been painted silver on top of the black. This certainly was not good enough, so I decided to polish the digits on the buffing wheel to a mirror finish, which of course destroyed the black paint as well, and then mask off the polished digits and respray the plate black again. It worked and with the aid of two more spacers to stop the plate rattling against the mudguard, the plate was bolted in place.

One finishing touch left was the rear reflector below the plate and the job was done.

Next step; the dynamo.

 I would love to read your comments on this blog. If you would like to make some please click "Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)" at the bottom of this page. If you would like to be automatically informed when a new episode is posted then please tick the "Join this site" box at the bottom of the page. Thanks for reading. Kevin

 Copyright K. Hopcroft  13.12.12 All rights reserved
 You can contact me on: hopcroftscoot@gmail.com

My Other Blogs:

1961 Ariel Arrow Super Sport Motorcycle :
http://60sclassicmotorbikes.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/1961-aerial-golden-arrow-restoration.html

Miniature Land Rover Defender:
http://miniaturelandrover.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/1-miniature-land-rover-defender-idea.html?view=timeslide

1971 VW Karman Ghia Convertible Car:
http://karmannghiarestoration.blogspot.co.uk/2017/03/1-karmann-ghia-retoration-project.html

Motorcycle Trailers / Caravans:
http://motorcycletrailersandcaravans.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/1-motorcycle-trailers-problem.html

16. BSA A10 Chain Reaction

It's now time to address the chain case and all things contained within. Having already polished the inner chain case, I offered it onto the crank case, with a new gasket and plenty of blue sealant and tightened the two internal fixing bolts, which are drilled to accept a locking wire that passes between them. The two original bolts went in OK but as I tightened the second one, it snapped! leaving the thread in the crank case. OMG! I removed the other bolt and the inner chain case again and to my horror there was no thread sticking proud of the crank case to get hold of. How to remove it? I took a long thin screwdriver and poked it through the other fixing hole to see if it was a blind hole or if it went right through into the crankcase. It went right through!. That was more bad news as it meant that, if I drilled out the broken thread, the metal swarfe could drop inside the crank case and require a full engine strip again.

I decided to measure the one remaining good bolt and work out how much thread was left inside my crank case. I then put a collar on a small drill to prevent the drill going right through the broken bolt thread, allowing me to drill a blind hole in the stud. I centre punched the middle of the broken stud and drilled, very, very carefully. There was always the chance that if the drill bit into the broken stud stuck, it could screw it straight through the crank case and deposit it inside the engine, but fortunately the broken stud was well stuck. Once the hole was done I then took a small "easy-out" (which is like a left hand thread tap) and screwed it into the hole. As it bit, to my relief, the broken stud unscrewed out of the crank case in one piece. Brilliant!!.

I was then considering re-assembly when I was going through my draws containing parts I had removed from the bike, when I came across a large round flat plate. It was obvious that this plate was the same shape as the inner chain case where it fits to the crank case. Obviously a spacer. It turns out that in order to line up the inner chain case with the frame where it fixed at the back of the bike, BSA introduced a spacer to space the inner chain case off the crank case and this was it. So I now needed to order two new fixing bolts and two new gaskets, one to fit each side of the spacer. Once they arrived the inner chain case and spacer could be mounted in place and the two new bolts tightened and secured with the locking wire. Also the adjustable plate that fits behind the clutch was fitted with new bolts and the felt seal to prevent oil leaking out of the chain case onto the gearbox. The securing bolts for this plate could not be tightened as the plate moves with the gearbox to adjust the primary chain tension, once the chain is fitted.

Time to fit the clutch and cush-drive. The outer clutch bell fits with 20 loose roller bearings which are held in place by the inner clutch bell (or basket). Having fitted the centre washer locking plate and nut, I was disturbed to notice that the only thing holding the clutch together was the thin tab washer. This did not seem right, so I sent photos to Lightning Spares and they confirmed that the washer under the nut was the wrong one and that a much larger and thicker washer was needed to hold the inner bell onto the splined shaft in the centre. I also sent pictures of the clutch plates  and was advised to change all of the friction plates as these were soaked in oil. I had assumed that the clutch ran in oil, like my Lambretta, but was was informed that the small amount of oil in the chain case only sits in the bottom to lubricate the primary chain and that the clutch runs dry.

So on with the new clutch plates, and after making a screwdriver with a slot in it (for adjusting the clutch spring tension), the outer pressure plate with it's four springs and adjusters, the clutch is now in place. The cush drive was fitted and the two sprockets aligned and the nice new chain run around the two sprockets. The cush drive was fitted with a new special SRM hexagon nut/plate and torqued to the correct setting and the gearbox could now be adjusted to tension the primary chain to the correct half inch play tension. Then the adjustable splash plate behind the clutch could be tightened in its final position. Now just a case a fitting the outer chain case cover and job done! Excellent.

 I would love to read your comments on this blog. If you would like to make some please click "Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)" at the bottom of this page. If you would like to be automatically informed when a new episode is posted then please tick the "Join this site" box at the bottom of the page. Thanks for reading. Kevin

 Copyright K. Hopcroft  07.12.12 All rights reserved
 You can contact me on: hopcroftscoot@gmail.com

My Other Blogs:

1961 Ariel Arrow Super Sport Motorcycle :
http://60sclassicmotorbikes.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/1961-aerial-golden-arrow-restoration.html

Miniature Land Rover Defender:
http://miniaturelandrover.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/1-miniature-land-rover-defender-idea.html?view=timeslide

1971 VW Karman Ghia Convertible Car:
http://karmannghiarestoration.blogspot.co.uk/2017/03/1-karmann-ghia-retoration-project.html

Motorcycle Trailers / Caravans:
http://motorcycletrailersandcaravans.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/1-motorcycle-trailers-problem.html

15. BSA A10 Chain Gang

Now that the gearbox is in place, it's time to fit the final drive chain and the chain guard. I felt that it was not a good idea to re-fit the old chain as I have no knowledge of how old it is or what kind of life it has had, so I bought two new chains. The final drive chain and the primary drive chain, which  I will fit later.

The final drive chain came with a split link so it was simply a case of running the chain around the two sprockets and fitting the split link. Easy.

Fitting the chain guard was not so easy. Having been tempted by a lovely custom made stainless steel chain guard, on EBay, I offered it up to the frame to find that none of the mounting holes lined up. In fact two of them were missing. Not to be put off I decided after much thought that it was best to use one of the existing holes in the new guard and re-drill the frame. This involved marking the rear chain guard lug lower down than it's original top hole and re-drilling the lug in the new marked position. This gave me a pivot point in the correct position. The guard could then be set at the right angle and the two front mounting lug holes could be measured from that point. These measurements were then transferred to the guard and marked on the guard for drilling.

You would think that to drill a flat piece of metal would be straight forward, but this stainless steel turned out to be exceptionally hard. Despite the fact that I was using a pedestal drill, nothing seemed to touch it and I managed to ruin two drills before I realised that I needed another approach. I phoned my friend who has been an engineer all his life and he informed me that to drill hard stainless steel you need a very slow drill and once you start drilling, don't stop or the surface you are drilling will harden. The drills I had in my workshop were all too fast, but I remembered that I did have a variable speed drill at home that I had never used. With the variable speed drill in the pedestal and a small sharp drill in the chuck I tried. Hey Presto! through it went! I just then increased the drill size 1mm at a time until the holes were done. Isn't knowledge wonderful?



With the holes all done the chain guard fitted beautifully, but it left the bottom rear support lug dangling down from the swinging arm and not being used. It had to go. But I did not want to remove the swinging arm again and I could not get a hacksaw in. The answer was a Dremel with a cutting disc on it and after about 10 minutes the lug had gone and the raw metal repainted. It was now just a case of bolting the guard in place. I decided to put the bolts through from the right side of the bike to allow me to fit polished stainless steel dome nuts on the left side. This done it was on and looked beautiful.

If you have ever built a show bike, or car, you will know that the process is on-going and as you do one thing a new idea emerges that makes you change your earlier decisions. This happened with the chain guard dome nuts. I decided that they looked so nice, I would change all of the nuts on the bike, wherever possible for dome nuts. So I have re-ordered all of the crankcase and engine and gearbox mounting nuts and will change all of the already carefully polished stainless ordinary nuts for domes. More expense!

 I would love to read your comments on this blog. If you would like to make some please click "Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)" at the bottom of this page. If you would like to be automatically informed when a new episode is posted then please tick the "Join this site" box at the bottom of the page. Thanks for reading. Kevin

 Copyright K. Hopcroft  01.12.12 All rights reserved
 You can contact me on: hopcroftscoot@gmail.com

My Other Blogs:

1961 Ariel Arrow Super Sport Motorcycle :
http://60sclassicmotorbikes.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/1961-aerial-golden-arrow-restoration.html

Miniature Land Rover Defender:
http://miniaturelandrover.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/1-miniature-land-rover-defender-idea.html?view=timeslide

1971 VW Karman Ghia Convertible Car:
http://karmannghiarestoration.blogspot.co.uk/2017/03/1-karmann-ghia-retoration-project.html

Motorcycle Trailers / Caravans:
http://motorcycletrailersandcaravans.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/1-motorcycle-trailers-problem.html

14. BSA A10 Top Gear

Having assemble the BSA A10 gear box, it is now time for a final polish and fitting the gearbox into the frame. Handling the gearbox for polishing when assembled is difficult because it is so heavy, which is why I stripped it in the first place. However it was well worthwhile as the reassembly process had left it looking a bit dull and it was good to polish where the three casing parts come together to give a nice nice finished look.

Fitting the gearbox required the removal of the right hand engine mounting plate. This was no problem as the left hand plate and the front mountings held the engine in place with no problems. The gearbox could then be passed through from right to left, followed by the right hand engine mounting plate and the two gearbox upper mounting plates. I passed the bottom gearbox pivot stud through the engine mounting plates and put the nuts on loosely. No point in tightening them as the gearbox has to pivot when adjusting the primary drive chain, which I'll cover later. The top adjustable gearbox fixing bolt, and adjusting mechanism was then fitted again loosely and then all of the engine and gearbox mounting studs and nuts could be tightened apart from the top two gearbox mounting plate nuts which need to be left loose to accept the Ski-slope that hooks over them and the battery tray.

You will notice from the photos that the clutch lever is not fitted at this point. Firstly because it has not arrived back from the chrome platers yet and secondly because I felt that it was best set up once the clutch was in place, which has yet to be fitted.

The gearbox is in, and looks excellent. BSA experts may notice, if you look carefully at the photo above, that something is missing from the inner timing cover, to the right of the picture. This will come back to bite me later!!

 I would love to read your comments on this blog. If you would like to make some please click "Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)" at the bottom of this page. If you would like to be automatically informed when a new episode is posted then please tick the "Join this site" box at the bottom of the page. Thanks for reading. Kevin

 Copyright K. Hopcroft  01.12.12 All rights reserved
 You can contact me on: hopcroftscoot@gmail.com

My Other Blogs:

1961 Ariel Arrow Super Sport Motorcycle :
http://60sclassicmotorbikes.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/1961-aerial-golden-arrow-restoration.html

Miniature Land Rover Defender:
http://miniaturelandrover.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/1-miniature-land-rover-defender-idea.html?view=timeslide

1971 VW Karman Ghia Convertible Car:
http://karmannghiarestoration.blogspot.co.uk/2017/03/1-karmann-ghia-retoration-project.html

Motorcycle Trailers / Caravans:
http://motorcycletrailersandcaravans.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/1-motorcycle-trailers-problem.html

13. BSA A10 Blood Sweat & Gears part 2

Stripping all of the gears out of the A10 gearbox box was not too difficult, but I was aware that putting it back together may be a different story. So to be extra careful I took photographs as each piece was removed and laid the gears out in order on the bench and then photographed them as well. I then transferred the photos to my computer for safe keeping.

I was surprised how light and easy to handle the gearbox was once the gears had been removed. Time to polish. This coincided with the arrival of a new linishing/polishing wheel that I had ordered off the Internet. It looked a bit like a red Brillo pad in the shape of a buffing wheel and made of a nylon type material. I was very sceptical about this new wheel and whether it would work so I tried it on a scrap piece of aluminium first. To my surprise it was fantastic. It was a bit like rubbing the aluminium with a fine wet and dry emery paper and a gentle touch removed deep scratches leaving a smooth but dull surface ready for polishing.

I set about the gearbox housing with the new wheel. It was possible to remove not only deep scratches but also casting lines and flaws. I then changed to a normal polishing wheel to bring the box up to a bright finish. It was then onto the bench for the final polish of the tight little areas that you can only get to with a Dremel.

Just to digress for a minute, I was so impressed with the results from the new linishing wheel that I decided to try it on some pit marks that I had been unable to remove on the engine timing side cover. Big mistake!!!. As I started on the pit marks more appeared and the more I tried to remove them, the more I got until suddenly a hole appeared right through the casing. Disaster! It would appear that the casing was a bad casting and contained air bubbles in the aluminium. The timing cover was now scrap. So back on the Internet and the purchase of another one. More on that later. Back to the gearbox:

With the casing brightly polished now was the time to start reassembly. So out with the laptop and bring up the photos. As usual, nothing goes quite how you expect. All of the photos were corrupt and none of my programs could open them. (Which is why there are no fully stripped photos on this blog). Of course I had also removed them from the camera, so it was back to the service sheets and the manual.

You first fit the side selector plate which pivots on the inside of the housing, new stainless steel pivot and nut of course. You then fit the output shaft in place along with new bearing and oil seal, the output chain sprocket and the notched nut. Then the rest of the inner gears along with the selectors carefully fitting the selectors into the side selector plate at the same time. It would help if you could grow a third hand during this process as it is very fiddly, but eventually all the gears went in and working the selector plate with a screwdriver proved that all of the gears were working.


Before fitting the outer cover, it is important that the selector is positioned in neutral. Double check because you will never get it to work if you put the outer cover on when it is in gear. The gear selector plate has to mate with the toothed quadrant that sticks through the inner cover plate and this quadrant must be in the right place (angle) before you push the plate home. To help the manual says that there is a red dot on the quadrant that should line up with the dot on the inner cover. My red dot had all but disappeared but there was an indentation on both so I lined them up. Wrong!. I could only get three gears. I removed the cover realigned the remains of the red dot with the case indention and reassembled. Wrong! Only two gears. After that it was just a case of trial and error until eventually I found the correct position for the quadrant that allowed the selection of all four gears.

Then on with the outer cover with it's new kickstart parts and spring and bolt it all together with new stainless steel studs, nuts and screws.

The next blog: The final gearbox polish and fitting it into the frame.

 I would love to read your comments on this blog. If you would like to make some please click "Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)" at the bottom of this page. If you would like to be automatically informed when a new episode is posted then please tick the "Join this site" box at the bottom of the page. Thanks for reading. Kevin

 Copyright K. Hopcroft  13.10.12 All rights reserved
 You can contact me on: hopcroftscoot@gmail.com

My Other Blogs:

1961 Ariel Arrow Super Sport Motorcycle :
http://60sclassicmotorbikes.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/1961-aerial-golden-arrow-restoration.html

Miniature Land Rover Defender:
http://miniaturelandrover.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/1-miniature-land-rover-defender-idea.html?view=timeslide

1971 VW Karman Ghia Convertible Car:
http://karmannghiarestoration.blogspot.co.uk/2017/03/1-karmann-ghia-retoration-project.html

Motorcycle Trailers / Caravans:
http://motorcycletrailersandcaravans.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/1-motorcycle-trailers-problem.html

12. BSA A10 Blood Sweat & Gears

Time to strip the gearbox and see what secrets lie inside. Having removed the gearbox earlier, it has laid untouched since the original bike strip back in February. Now is the time to do an inspection.

I drained the oil and to my relief there was no metal particles in it and so the strip began. Removing the outer cover revealed the kick-start mechanism and the clutch actuating lever mechanism. Apart from the clutch lever itself, which needed cleaning and chroming, the rest of the clutch mechanism seemed in fairly good condition. Unfortunately, I couldn't say the same for the kick-start parts.

Both the quadrant kick-start gear and the ratchet gear that it mates with were both in pretty poor condition. I decided that, as this would hopefully be the only time I would strip the gearbox, to do it properly.

I got in touch with lightning spares and ordered a new quadrant and ratchet gear along with a new return spring, adjustment plunger housing and nut, side plate, bearings, oil seals and all gaskets.

I then set about polishing the outer cover and inner cover, with the hope that I could polish the main gearbox housing without having to remove all the inner gears.
Once the parts arrived, my idea was to rebuild the outer casing with the new parts, assemble the gearbox and then polish the whole thing. As usual this turned out to be impossible and so the next stage was a complete strip with all gears and gear-selector parts out on the bench.

But first I had to remove the main final drive sprocket. To do this you need a special spanner as the nut holding it on is round with just two side notches in it. I could not find a tool that fitted or find one for sale on the Internet. Having secured the sprocket in a vice by rapping the old chain around it and then clamping the chain in the vice, I tried knocking it around with a hammer and drift. No luck!. So I set about making a suitable spanner out of an old 27mm open-end spanner that I already had. Lots of sawing, filing and grinding later, the spanner fit and with a couple of sharpe knocks on the end with a lump hammer, the spanner did its job and the nut came loose.

More gearbox tales on the next blog

I would love to read your comments on this blog. If you would like to make some please click "Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)" at the bottom of this page. If you would like to be automatically informed when a new episode is posted then please tick the "Join this site" box at the bottom of the page. Thanks for reading. Kevin

 Copyright K. Hopcroft  30.09.12 All rights reserved
 You can contact me on: hopcroftscoot@gmail.com

My Other Blogs:

1961 Ariel Arrow Super Sport Motorcycle :
http://60sclassicmotorbikes.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/1961-aerial-golden-arrow-restoration.html

Miniature Land Rover Defender:
http://miniaturelandrover.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/1-miniature-land-rover-defender-idea.html?view=timeslide

1971 VW Karman Ghia Convertible Car:
http://karmannghiarestoration.blogspot.co.uk/2017/03/1-karmann-ghia-retoration-project.html

Motorcycle Trailers / Caravans:
http://motorcycletrailersandcaravans.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/1-motorcycle-trailers-problem.html