Having got the engine back together, I could now start refitting some more
bits. The first easy bit is the flywheel, which has the primary drive chain
sprocket on the back of it. Nothing wrong with the old one, so a quick clean in
the parts washing bath and slip it onto the left hand end of the crankshaft.
There is a small woodruff key on the shaft to stop the flywheel slipping and
just a little care is needed not to disturb it when sliding on the flywheel.
That done, it's time to look at the lock washer and the centre nut.
Oh Dear! the lock washer has been used several times and is beyond re-use and the nut looks like someone has used a hammer and chisel to tighten it with previously. I rang Draganfly and a replacement lock washer was posted immediately, but they had no stock of the nut. So I decided to pop it in the lathe and reface it and as you can see it looks OK. After trying the new lock washer in place, it was obvious that it sat too flat on the flywheel to be able to get a screwdriver behind it and bend it over, So taking note of where the flats were on the tightened nut, I removed it again and bent it away in the vice first. I then popped it back on and just had to tighten the nut. The problem is holding a round flywheel still while tightening the nut in the middle.
The answer came with a tool that I had bought earlier. A "Belt Wrench". This is basically a handle with a strong rubber timing belt fastened to it. You slip the belt around the flywheel and pass it back through the handle. As you tighten the nut, the belt grips the flywheel and locks the handle against the side of the flywheel. It's incredibly strong grip holds the flywheel perfectly even under high torque settings. The lock washer could then be bent over and secured against the sides of the nut. Job Done
Whilst on the left side of the engine, I decided that it was a good time to fit the final drive chain sprocket, bearing and oil seal ready for the gearbox to be fitted later. At last a stroke of luck! The same mandrel and drift that I had made for the main crankshaft bearings and oil seals also fits the gearbox final drive bearing and oil seal, so it was really simple to knock them into place and fit the retaining circlip. You can just see it on the right of the flywheel on the picture above.
I could then fit the newly painted covering cap over the alternator and pass the wires through the hole in the cap with a new grommet to stop it rubbing through.
By the way, you can just spot the "Belt Wrench" in this picture!
As I now have the first sign of
wiring appearing on the bike, I felt that this was a good time to take a look
at the wiring loom. The man that I bought the bike from had given me a new loom
that he had bought, but said that he had never been able to figure it out! I
looked at the new loom and then the circuit diagram in the workshop manual and
decided that, as many of the colours of the wires did not match the diagram,
that it was the wrong loom for the bike. So I ordered a new one. It came in a
sealed bag with a new circuit diagram, these didn't match either! I phoned
Draganfly and they said "send it back and we'll send you a different one.
It must have the wrong diagram in with the loom. So that's what I did. A few days
later, loom number three arrived. This didn't match the new different diagram with it
either!!! I then had an idea, I had made a photocopy of the first diagram that
I sent back and so took another look at that one. Low and behold, that one
matched the third loom (they are obviously being packed in the wrong bags by
the manufacturer. OK so now I could start.
The problem with circuit diagrams, rather than wiring diagrams is that circuit diagrams show what colour wire connects to what but the diagram does not show the end of the wire in relation to it's position on the loom or the bike. The only two wires that I could definitely identify were the rear stop and tail light wires. I made the decision to start there, connect the stop and tail light wires and then lay the loom forward on the bike and the remaining wires should line up with the things that they are supposed to connect to. Wrong, wrong, wrong!!!. Nothing lined up and the loom didn't even reach the headlight, I even had ring connectors finishing up under the rear mudguard and it was no good looking at the original wiring that I had taken off the bike as that was home made. I phoned Draganfly again and asked if they had a wiring diagram? The answer was
"No". So I decided to draw my own and send it to them with some relevant questions. I am afraid that that wasn't much help either as no one could really help me. I've found this with Ariel's, that there is much less knowledge and printed information available than when I was rebuilding my BSA A10.
I was lying in the bath, thinking about wiring the Ariel (as you do) suddenly it came to me. The two ring connectors under the rear mudguard must be the battery connectors and if they are then the whole loom needs to move forwards and
the wires for the rear light must finish just at the front of the rear mudguard and need extending over the mudguard to the rear light. When I got to the workshop, I disconnected the wiring from the rear light and moved the whole loom forward until the two ring connectors reached the battery position. Low and behold, the loom now reached the headlight and the tail light wires just poked through into the rear mudguard. Got it!!
OK, so that meant that there must be another loom that fits under the rear mudguard and connects to the rear lamp and the stop light switch and to the end of the main loom. I looked in the parts book and there was nothing, so I rang Draganfly and they said that they didn't do another loom, so the only thing to do was make one.
So with some lengths of different coloured wire and some heat-shrink sleeving, I made a "Y" shaped loom and connected it up. Brilliant, it fits and all the wires now branch off in the right places.
As you can see from the picture, the rear shock absorbers are now in place, but more about that in the next blog.
Copyright K. Hopcroft 22.02.15 All rights reserved
You can contact me on: hopcroftscoot@gmail.com
My Other Blogs:
1961 BSA A10 Super Rocket Motorcycle:
https://60sclassicmotorbikes.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/before.html
Miniature Land Rover Defender:
http://miniaturelandrover.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/1-miniature-land-rover-defender-idea.html
1971 VW Karmann Ghia Convertible Car:
http://karmannghiarestoration.blogspot.co.uk/2017/03/1-karmann-ghia-retoration-project.html
Motorcycle Trailers / Caravans:
http://motorcycletrailersandcaravans.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/1-motorcycle-trailers-problem.html
Oh Dear! the lock washer has been used several times and is beyond re-use and the nut looks like someone has used a hammer and chisel to tighten it with previously. I rang Draganfly and a replacement lock washer was posted immediately, but they had no stock of the nut. So I decided to pop it in the lathe and reface it and as you can see it looks OK. After trying the new lock washer in place, it was obvious that it sat too flat on the flywheel to be able to get a screwdriver behind it and bend it over, So taking note of where the flats were on the tightened nut, I removed it again and bent it away in the vice first. I then popped it back on and just had to tighten the nut. The problem is holding a round flywheel still while tightening the nut in the middle.
The answer came with a tool that I had bought earlier. A "Belt Wrench". This is basically a handle with a strong rubber timing belt fastened to it. You slip the belt around the flywheel and pass it back through the handle. As you tighten the nut, the belt grips the flywheel and locks the handle against the side of the flywheel. It's incredibly strong grip holds the flywheel perfectly even under high torque settings. The lock washer could then be bent over and secured against the sides of the nut. Job Done
Whilst on the left side of the engine, I decided that it was a good time to fit the final drive chain sprocket, bearing and oil seal ready for the gearbox to be fitted later. At last a stroke of luck! The same mandrel and drift that I had made for the main crankshaft bearings and oil seals also fits the gearbox final drive bearing and oil seal, so it was really simple to knock them into place and fit the retaining circlip. You can just see it on the right of the flywheel on the picture above.
Now to the right side. On the right side of the crankshaft fits the
Alternator, this generates the electricity for the bike.This picture shows it
before I stripped it off the bike. Nothing too difficult about refitting this,
I just needed a good clean in the parts washer as it was soaked in oil and a
new woodruff key and it fitted back onto the end cap with three fixings. The centre
nut then needed tightening, using the same belt wrench holding the flywheel on
the other side.
I could then fit the newly painted covering cap over the alternator and pass the wires through the hole in the cap with a new grommet to stop it rubbing through.
By the way, you can just spot the "Belt Wrench" in this picture!
The problem with circuit diagrams, rather than wiring diagrams is that circuit diagrams show what colour wire connects to what but the diagram does not show the end of the wire in relation to it's position on the loom or the bike. The only two wires that I could definitely identify were the rear stop and tail light wires. I made the decision to start there, connect the stop and tail light wires and then lay the loom forward on the bike and the remaining wires should line up with the things that they are supposed to connect to. Wrong, wrong, wrong!!!. Nothing lined up and the loom didn't even reach the headlight, I even had ring connectors finishing up under the rear mudguard and it was no good looking at the original wiring that I had taken off the bike as that was home made. I phoned Draganfly again and asked if they had a wiring diagram? The answer was
"No". So I decided to draw my own and send it to them with some relevant questions. I am afraid that that wasn't much help either as no one could really help me. I've found this with Ariel's, that there is much less knowledge and printed information available than when I was rebuilding my BSA A10.
I was lying in the bath, thinking about wiring the Ariel (as you do) suddenly it came to me. The two ring connectors under the rear mudguard must be the battery connectors and if they are then the whole loom needs to move forwards and
the wires for the rear light must finish just at the front of the rear mudguard and need extending over the mudguard to the rear light. When I got to the workshop, I disconnected the wiring from the rear light and moved the whole loom forward until the two ring connectors reached the battery position. Low and behold, the loom now reached the headlight and the tail light wires just poked through into the rear mudguard. Got it!!
OK, so that meant that there must be another loom that fits under the rear mudguard and connects to the rear lamp and the stop light switch and to the end of the main loom. I looked in the parts book and there was nothing, so I rang Draganfly and they said that they didn't do another loom, so the only thing to do was make one.
So with some lengths of different coloured wire and some heat-shrink sleeving, I made a "Y" shaped loom and connected it up. Brilliant, it fits and all the wires now branch off in the right places.
As you can see from the picture, the rear shock absorbers are now in place, but more about that in the next blog.
Copyright K. Hopcroft 22.02.15 All rights reserved
You can contact me on: hopcroftscoot@gmail.com
My Other Blogs:
1961 BSA A10 Super Rocket Motorcycle:
https://60sclassicmotorbikes.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/before.html
Miniature Land Rover Defender:
http://miniaturelandrover.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/1-miniature-land-rover-defender-idea.html
1971 VW Karmann Ghia Convertible Car:
http://karmannghiarestoration.blogspot.co.uk/2017/03/1-karmann-ghia-retoration-project.html
Motorcycle Trailers / Caravans:
http://motorcycletrailersandcaravans.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/1-motorcycle-trailers-problem.html
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